Choosing a blacksmith anvil: weight, steel, and a solid mount.

The anvil sets the rhythm of your hammering and the comfort of every hour at the forge. Weight matters, but so do the steel in the face, the shape of the horn, and how solidly it's mounted.

By Morgan Reid, author of Modern Blacksmithing for Makers

The parts and what they do

• Face: the flat, hardened top where most shaping happens. A smooth, level face lets bars slide and roll predictably; a pitted one catches and marks work.
• Horn: your bending partner. Its taper sets the curves you can form. Rounder horns suit flowing scrolls; slimmer ones allow tighter bends.
• Heel and waist: support for cutting and flattening near the heel, and a narrow working area at the waist.
• Hardy hole: a square socket for hardy tools such as cutters, fullers, and bending jigs.
• Pritchel hole: a round hole for punching and drifting hot steel.

What weight to buy

Mass absorbs the shock of each blow and puts the energy back into the work, so a heavier anvil makes shaping easier and less tiring. Lean heavier if you'll routinely work long stock or make tools. A heavier anvil also needs a heavier, more solid mount to perform well.

Cast iron, cast steel, or forged steel

Cast iron anvils are cheap, but the faces are brittle and chip, and the hammer feels dead on them. That makes the work slower and more tiring. Cast steel with a hardened face is a good middle ground. Forged steel is the traditional favorite: tougher overall, able to take a hard face, and easier to repair. Put your money into a hardened face and sound structure before brand names or a shiny finish.

How to check a used anvil

1. Tap it. Bring a small hammer and tap the face, horn, and edges. A clear, even ring usually means sound steel. A dull thud can mean soft areas, internal cracks, or heavy repairs.
2. Look for cracks, especially at the corners, edges, and around the hardy hole. Wire-brush a patch of rust to see what it hides.
3. Check for repairs. Oversized welds, filled-in edges, or a built-up face all change how it behaves.
4. Check the face. Lay a flat bar across it and see if it rocks. Small flaws dress out with a file; deep pits and heavy wear don't.
5. Ask about its history, and photograph the measurements to get a second opinion from a local smith or online group.

Factor in the cost of any repair, plus transport. A 150-pound anvil needs at least two people or lifting gear, and freight shipping adds crating and handling fees.

Budget substitutes

You can learn real technique before buying a full anvil. A 1 to 2 inch AR500 hardened steel plate bolted to a heavy timber stump gives a reasonably hard striking surface. Thick mild steel plate, heavy railroad track stood on end, or a welded steel cap on a sturdy stump also work. Expect a deader feel and faster wear. Use lighter hammers and deliberate blows, and trade up when your skills and budget grow.

Mount it solid

An anvil must not move. Any wobble wastes energy and moves where your hammer lands. A classic stand is a heavy oak or ash post, 12 to 16 inches across, cut to working height with a splayed base. A welded steel box with internal bracing and a thick top plate is a compact alternative. Match the stand's mass to the anvil.

• Bolt it through. Heavy bolts, commonly 7/16 to 1/2 inch, with lock washers or nylon-lock nuts. A hardwood block wedged into the waist and lag-bolted down also works. Don't rely on epoxy alone.
• Damp the ring with a thin hardwood pad, rubber mat, or leather spacer under the anvil.
• Retighten the fasteners now and then. Hammering loosens them.

Set the height

Stand relaxed with your arms hanging naturally. A face around wrist to knuckle height is the starting point. For powerful overhand blows, set it near knuckle height. For detail work, a slightly lower face gives better wrist control. Test with the hammer and stock you'll really use, shim or trim the stand rather than changing your posture, and note the setting that works.

Look after it

Keep the anvil clean and lightly oiled when idle, and cover it in a damp shop. Don't strike hardened tools straight onto the face in ways that chip either surface. Dress small dents with a flat file, taking off as little as possible, and store tools in a rack instead of on the face. Next step: choosing the forge to sit beside it.

Modern Blacksmithing for Makers

The whole small shop: choosing a forge, anvil, and tools, hammer and tong drills, hardening and tempering, forge welding and scrolls, and a project path.

Read it on Amazon →

What size anvil should a beginner buy?

For most hobby work, 75 to 125 pounds. A 50 to 75 pound anvil handles hooks and light hardware, and 100 to 150 pounds suits blades, long stock, and tool-making.

Can I use a railroad track as an anvil?

Yes, as a learning tool. Heavy track stood on end on a sturdy stump gives usable mass. It feels deader and wears faster than a hardened anvil, so use lighter hammers and trade up later.